City of sunbeams Szeged: A place to fall in love with
by Melanie Henkler
Graduate of the binational Master, University of Kassel
It is a warm evening, although autumn has already arrived. The sun has been shining all day. The last rays are falling on the cathedral spire. A hundred smells waft through the warm air. It smells of Hungarian specialties like lángos or Kürtőskalács (tree cake). It smells of cheese and wine, countless perfume scents still tickle the nose: the small wine festival on Cathedral Square has begun and all of Szeged seems to be on its feet to indulge in the tasty Hungarian wine.
There is something for every taste. Whether sweet or dry, rosé, red wine, white wine or as Fröccs (wine mixed with soda), the popular drink is sold here in large quantities. We also let ourselves taste the wine. The mood rises and rhythmic sounds reach our ears. Tonight there are even more concerts in Szeged than usual. Traditional brass bands compete with modern pop, rock or soul music. The listener is spoiled for choice. The atmosphere is exuberant, people all around are laughing, toasting each other and dancing. It is unmistakable: Hungarians love their wine festivals. And rightly so.
But at some point, the small, closely packed stalls have to close. We don't feel like going home yet. And we don't have to: there is still a lot going on in Szeged. Tonight we decide to go to the Zápor, a popular meeting place. You just have to be lucky enough to find it or have it shown to you by someone who knows the place, because like so many places, it's in the basement. Inside we see the usual picture: the pub is well attended, which may be equally due to the affordable prices or the good atmosphere. The decoration delights the visitor in its retro chic: note the red car right next to the bar, the umbrellas draped on the ceiling or the ancient radio on an even older dresser.
We push our way through the crowd and actually find a free seat. As usual, we sit together in an international group and exchange ideas with our friends in a mixture of German, English and Hungarian. Actually, more languages would be possible, because students from all over the world are staying in Szeged. Suddenly there is a commotion at our table. Someone has suggested playing another round of Csocsó, which makes especially the males present jump up immediately. What is Csocsó? It will be hard to believe, but in Hungary table soccer is part of the typical pub scene. Even today it is used enthusiastically: We are invited to a game of Germany against Hungary. Unfortunately, we don't stand a chance against our skilled opponents, so the miracle of Bern cannot be repeated. As losers, we buy a round of pálinka and drink to German-Hungarian friendship. On our way home, we walk across one of the downtown bridges that crosses the Tisza (Tisza River). The light of the street lamps is reflected in the river. Above this scenery rises the illuminated cathedral and we think, "You can only love this city!"
